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Blueberries Care Guide BLUEBERRIES grow best in full sun, well drained, sandy, organically rich acid soil, (ph 4.5-5.2). Soil ph can be lowered by adding elemental sulphur or gypsum several months prior to planting. Adding sphagnum peat moss in the planting hole at time of planting also reduces the ph. CONTAINER grown plants can be planted any time of the year, if you are willing to make sure to water them if they are dry. Plant 3 e - 5f apart in row. Planting hole should be at least 2 to 3f wide and approximately a foot deep. Mix at least 10 gallons of sphagnum peat moss (try for a 50/50 mix) with the dirt from the planting hole, pine bark soil conditioner can be used, but peat moss will last longer in the ground. The roots will follow the organic matter as far as it goes. Believe me, this is money well spent. WATER is critical from time of planting to dormant stage. New plantings with lush growth in dry periods may require daily watering. If in doubt, stick finger in root ball. MULCH will protect the roots, discourage weed growth and help retain moisture. Any of the following may be used; pine bark, pine chips and needles or pine sawdust. I have a planting in my yard of different varieties of blueberries for our own personal use, that my wife did through landscaping fabric, with bark nuggets on top for mulch and they are doing beautifully. FEED sparingly 3/4 oz. of ammonium sulfate or its equivalent in urea or a well-balanced water soluble fertilizer, such as gmiracidh, for each year of growth (little or none the first year) up to 4 oz. for mature plants. Spread around the drip line, away from the crown (12 to 18h). This can be done at one time when the buds swell, prior to opening or split into 2 or 3 applications, six weeks apart. In the first year after planting, blueberries need special care to help them become well established. In addition to watering, be sure to remove flowers. This will encourage the plant to channel itfs first year energy into producing a vigorous plant with many branches and better root system. PRUNE young plants by removing dead, diseased or damaged canes and twiggy growth each spring. As plants mature, open the center to allow sunlight and good air flow, keeping 8-10 canes arising from the crown by removing the oldest dark cane and remaining low growing, dead and diseased branches and small twigs. COMMON QUESTIONS: BROWN LEAVES WITH OR WITHOUT SOME GREEN AT THE BASE OF THE LEAF? WHOLE PLANT DIES WITH LEAVES ON AND BARK SHRIVELED UP? RED LEAVES, NO GROWTH? OLDER PLANTS LOOK GOOD, BUT NOT GROWING?
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